Leon comes from the Latin Legio and is a reference to the Roman Legion that founded the city. It has nothing to do with Lion, through there are a few images of lions around Leon.
The stylish city of León dates from the 1st century when the Roman legion, Legio VII Gemina, established a military base here. It remained a minor Visigoth and later Muslim settlement until it was it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Asturias around 850 and shortly thereafter became the capital of the Kingdom of León and effectively capital of Christian Spain.
Despite being sacked by Al-Mansur in 988 it recovered quickly and the period after the 10th century was one of prosperity and growth with its pivotal position on the Camino de Santiago providing León with fresh capital, immigrants and cultural influence from the rest of Europe. León became the most powerful and rich city in Christian Spain with a divergent cultural life among the different ethnic groups who lived here.
This growth was interrupted by the arrival of the Plague around 1350 which affected this region badly, causing the abandonment of entire villages, and by the drift of the centres of power of the Christian kingdoms southwards to Seville, Toledo and Cordoba.
With time León lapsed into a sleepy provincial backwater until the development of coal mining. This brought economic growth together with the construction of a railway network linking León with Madrid and the industrial heartland. Today Leon is a prosperous city with 135,000 inhabitants. Tourism pays an important part in its economy as do the many working in metalwork, engineering, chemicals, ceramics, glass and paper.”
Of course for me the visit to the Cqthedral wqs most important. It is said to have been modelled on the Cathedral of Reims in northern France. It was built, beginning in the 13th century, on top of the original Romanesque cathedral which was built on a palace erected by King Ordoño II, which was in turn built on top of public baths from the Roman era. The 1,800m² of stained glass represents humankind's supremacy on earth with depictions of paradise, flora and fauna, saints, biblical stories, hunting scenes, etc. The current stained glass dates from many different periods but the circular window on the main façade is original 13th century. The Renaissance cloister has Gothic walls with Plateresque vaults decorated with Gothic frescoes. The Real Basílica de San Isidoro was completed in the 12th century and is Romanesque in style with Gothic and Islamic influences.
It is considered a fine example of early Romanesque art with well-preserved 12th century murals depicting scenes from the New Testament and of agricultural activities. Its two entrances have depictions of rams' heads and biblical scenes.
I found it a wonderful experience and a highlight of my Camino. The audio presentation (as with Bugos) was excellent. What is unique about it is that it was composed at one time (12th century) and is just that Gothic design. There was an attempt to change things with later designs that almost destroyed the Cathedral, but thankfully the right person was there to save the situation.
On leaving the museum I came to the Museum building and was just in time for the 12 noon Mass.
It was now 1pm and had 20 plus kms to travel. The route was mainly walking out of Leon. First 3.59 kms to Trobaja del Camino. Another small church, open this time. Then on to La Virgen del Camino. Here I missed something very important. As you can imagine, most churches are from the say 15th century. This one is new and modern! Unfortunately, thinking that the signs were a small diversion, I went straight ahead and missed the Church.
At La Virgen del Camino we were offered 2 options for the next part of the journey, one through the country and the other following a major highway. The 2 would link up again at Hospital de Orbigo tomorrow. It's always difficult making decisions on little information. Reading afterwards, most people prefer the country route, and some don't mention the alternative, although it is possibly the original route.
I chose the route nearer the highway for several reasons. In winter, with shortened hours, it is safer to be where the traffic is, whereas in the country, if an aubergie is closed, it will be more difficult to find accomodation further ahead. Whereas, if you are where the traffic is, there should be accomodation somewhere. This is what has happened to me. I arrived at Vellagangos del Paramo. It is situated at the merging of 2 motorways, and judging by the number of big trucks around, was a sort of a pit stop for drivers. So I was able to find a bed for the night and also an excellent meal and breakfast in the morning.
I guess I been thinking a little today that I am nearing the end of this journey. I realize that I don't want it to end. It is like I am just getting into it. But that 's the way things are.
The stylish city of León dates from the 1st century when the Roman legion, Legio VII Gemina, established a military base here. It remained a minor Visigoth and later Muslim settlement until it was it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Asturias around 850 and shortly thereafter became the capital of the Kingdom of León and effectively capital of Christian Spain.
Despite being sacked by Al-Mansur in 988 it recovered quickly and the period after the 10th century was one of prosperity and growth with its pivotal position on the Camino de Santiago providing León with fresh capital, immigrants and cultural influence from the rest of Europe. León became the most powerful and rich city in Christian Spain with a divergent cultural life among the different ethnic groups who lived here.
This growth was interrupted by the arrival of the Plague around 1350 which affected this region badly, causing the abandonment of entire villages, and by the drift of the centres of power of the Christian kingdoms southwards to Seville, Toledo and Cordoba.
With time León lapsed into a sleepy provincial backwater until the development of coal mining. This brought economic growth together with the construction of a railway network linking León with Madrid and the industrial heartland. Today Leon is a prosperous city with 135,000 inhabitants. Tourism pays an important part in its economy as do the many working in metalwork, engineering, chemicals, ceramics, glass and paper.”
Of course for me the visit to the Cqthedral wqs most important. It is said to have been modelled on the Cathedral of Reims in northern France. It was built, beginning in the 13th century, on top of the original Romanesque cathedral which was built on a palace erected by King Ordoño II, which was in turn built on top of public baths from the Roman era. The 1,800m² of stained glass represents humankind's supremacy on earth with depictions of paradise, flora and fauna, saints, biblical stories, hunting scenes, etc. The current stained glass dates from many different periods but the circular window on the main façade is original 13th century. The Renaissance cloister has Gothic walls with Plateresque vaults decorated with Gothic frescoes. The Real Basílica de San Isidoro was completed in the 12th century and is Romanesque in style with Gothic and Islamic influences.
It is considered a fine example of early Romanesque art with well-preserved 12th century murals depicting scenes from the New Testament and of agricultural activities. Its two entrances have depictions of rams' heads and biblical scenes.
I found it a wonderful experience and a highlight of my Camino. The audio presentation (as with Bugos) was excellent. What is unique about it is that it was composed at one time (12th century) and is just that Gothic design. There was an attempt to change things with later designs that almost destroyed the Cathedral, but thankfully the right person was there to save the situation.
On leaving the museum I came to the Museum building and was just in time for the 12 noon Mass.
It was now 1pm and had 20 plus kms to travel. The route was mainly walking out of Leon. First 3.59 kms to Trobaja del Camino. Another small church, open this time. Then on to La Virgen del Camino. Here I missed something very important. As you can imagine, most churches are from the say 15th century. This one is new and modern! Unfortunately, thinking that the signs were a small diversion, I went straight ahead and missed the Church.
At La Virgen del Camino we were offered 2 options for the next part of the journey, one through the country and the other following a major highway. The 2 would link up again at Hospital de Orbigo tomorrow. It's always difficult making decisions on little information. Reading afterwards, most people prefer the country route, and some don't mention the alternative, although it is possibly the original route.
I chose the route nearer the highway for several reasons. In winter, with shortened hours, it is safer to be where the traffic is, whereas in the country, if an aubergie is closed, it will be more difficult to find accomodation further ahead. Whereas, if you are where the traffic is, there should be accomodation somewhere. This is what has happened to me. I arrived at Vellagangos del Paramo. It is situated at the merging of 2 motorways, and judging by the number of big trucks around, was a sort of a pit stop for drivers. So I was able to find a bed for the night and also an excellent meal and breakfast in the morning.
I guess I been thinking a little today that I am nearing the end of this journey. I realize that I don't want it to end. It is like I am just getting into it. But that 's the way things are.
Leon Cathedral
Mary Pregnant - image quite often shown in Middle Ages
Choir Stalls
Typical painting above altar
Looking at the front of the Cathedral
A church I visited today in Leon
Pilgrim
Leon's river, the Sil
Arriving at La Virgen del Camino
A cross - impressed me
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